Retinoids: a beginner's explainer

The term ‘retinoid’ appears frequently in discussions about skincare, often surrounded by a mixture of high praise and caution. Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A, recognised for their ability to influence how skin cells behave. They work by supporting skin cell turnover, helping to address concerns ranging from the appearance of fine lines and uneven pigmentation to the texture associated with breakouts.

Because of their activity, introducing them to a skincare routine requires a measured approach. They are powerful ingredients that command respect. Understanding what they are, the differences between the various types, and how to begin using them can help you make an informed decision and minimise the potential for irritation.

This explainer will cover the fundamentals of using over-the-counter retinoids, from application methods to the essential supporting products that create a balanced routine.

What are the different types of retinoids?

‘Retinoid’ is an umbrella term for a whole family of vitamin A derivatives. For a retinoid to work, it must be converted by enzymes in the skin into retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A. The number of conversion steps a retinoid has to go through determines its potency; fewer steps usually means it is stronger and faster-acting, but also brings a higher potential for irritation.

Over-the-counter (OTC) products typically contain gentler forms. Retinol esters, such as retinyl palmitate, require the most conversion steps, making them the mildest option. Retinol is a well-known staple ingredient that requires two conversion steps. Retinaldehyde (often shortened to retinal) is more potent than retinol, as it only needs one step to become retinoic acid.

Stronger, prescription-only retinoids, such as tretinoin and adapalene, are pure retinoic acid or a synthetic equivalent. These require no conversion and work directly on the skin. They are prescribed by medical professionals to treat specific conditions, including acne and photoageing, and should only be used under medical supervision.

How to start using retinoids

The guiding principle for starting with any retinoid is ‘low and slow’. Begin with a low concentration of an over-the-counter formula, such as retinol, to allow your skin to acclimatise. Patch-testing a new product on a small, discreet area of skin is always a sensible precaution.

Apply your retinoid only at night, as sunlight can degrade its effectiveness. After cleansing, wait for your skin to dry completely, as applying a retinoid to damp skin can increase absorption and the likelihood of irritation. Use a pea-sized amount for the entire face, avoiding the delicate skin around the eyes and the corners of the mouth.

Start by applying it just one or two evenings a week for the first few weeks. If your skin shows no signs of significant irritation, you can gradually increase the frequency to every other night, and eventually every night if your skin tolerates it well. This acclimatisation period, sometimes called ‘retinisation’, can take several weeks or even months. Patience is key. Building a consistent routine is more important than using a high strength or applying it too frequently. For more advice, see our guide on how to build a simple skincare routine.

Managing potential irritation

It is common to experience some dryness, redness, or light peeling when you first introduce a retinoid. This is part of the retinisation process as your skin adjusts. However, if your skin feels sore, sensitive, or deeply uncomfortable, it is a sign to pull back.

If you experience significant irritation, reduce the frequency of application or take a break for a few days until your skin has calmed down. One popular technique to reduce irritation is buffering, or the ‘sandwich method’. This involves applying a layer of a simple, gentle moisturiser to your skin, waiting for it to absorb, applying the retinoid, and then sealing it with another layer of moisturiser. You can find information on how to choose a moisturiser in our buying guide.

To support your skin, simplify the rest of your routine. Use a gentle, non-foaming cleanser and a nourishing moisturiser. It is also wise to stop using other potent active ingredients, such as exfoliating acids (AHAs or BHAs) and vitamin C, in the same routine as your retinoid, particularly when you are just starting out. If irritation persists, stop using the product and consider speaking with a pharmacist or dermatologist.

The importance of sun protection

Using a retinoid makes daily sun protection non-negotiable. By accelerating cell turnover, retinoids bring fresh, new skin cells to the surface. These new cells are more delicate and susceptible to damage from ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

To protect your skin and the results of your retinoid use, you must apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF every single morning, without fail. This applies all year round, even on cloudy days and during the colder months. For more on this, read our article on whether you need SPF in winter.

Important considerations

Retinoids are not recommended for use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. If you are pregnant, planning to become pregnant, or breastfeeding, you should consult your GP or pharmacist for advice on safe skincare alternatives.

For those with very sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea or eczema, it is especially important to be cautious. Start with the gentlest possible formulation, patch-test thoroughly, and consider seeking professional advice before you begin. A dermatologist can provide guidance tailored to your specific skin needs and may suggest prescription options or alternative treatments.